11.10.2023

Wheelwright Apprenticeship Opening 2023

 


The wheelwright shop’s primary role at Colonial Williamsburg is to build and maintain the fleet of work vehicles used throughout the Historic Trades department. Our standard products are carts, wagons, and wheelbarrows, however, we also build agricultural implements like plows and harrows, as well as early machines. A very important point is that we are actually doing this work for real – no demonstrations! – and that the vehicles we build are actually put to work. So while we may work in costume, we do not pretend to be in the 18th century, nor are we only pretending to do the work. The mission of the Historic Trades department in general is to preserve the pre-industrial 18th century practice of all 26 trades represented here, and the best way to do that is by actually doing the work, for real. Working in a 18th century manner means not only using hand tools to do our work, but trying to inhabit the minds of period craftspeople and learn, through experimentation, how they might have solved certain problems. Museums usually preserve objects and artifacts, at Colonial Williamsburg we preserve a process and a practice.


In addition to preserving the practice, we also are expected to interpret our trade to the public. During busy periods of the year, you can expect to spend half your time talking with folks about your work. To be an effective interpreter you must not only master the requisite benchwork but also possess a command of the history of the craft. Thus, there is a substantial amount of reading and research you are expected to do as a part of your apprenticeship. 

 



The Apprenticeship

Each trade shop here hosts a formal apprenticeship program. The apprenticeship is a multilevel curriculum where you are trained to do the work in a 18th century manner as well as effectively interpret the work to the public. It is a full-time job with benefits. Starting pay for a first-level apprentice is $16/hour. Your pay throughout the apprenticeship is commensurate to your acquisition of various necessary skills and your progression through the curriculum. It generally takes from 3 to 6 years to complete the apprenticeship. Upon completion of the curriculum, you may become a journeyman in the shop where you will continue to practice the arts and mysteries of wheelwrighting for the foreseeable future. In other words, this opportunity can lead to a long-term career in historic trade.

 

 

What we are looking for

An ideal candidate is equally experienced in hand tool woodworking and explaining history and craft to the public. We are open to candidates who have not used hand tools before or have little experience working with wood. Conversely, if you have little experience working with or in front of the public, we also open to your application. While our shop is firmly footed in tradition and practice, we are also open to new ideas and experimentation. We are looking for a candidate who not only wants to master the craft but who wants contribute to the evolution of our shop. Please apply by December 1st, 2023 with a resume and cover letter at www.colonialwilliamsburg.org/careers

 

Here's few more pictures from around the shop!

 






4.07.2023

Paintmaking & Vehicles in the 18th Century


There is a common misconception that history is drab, brown and yellowed—all sepia tones and dust— but this couldn't be farther from the truth. The 18th century was a spectacularly colorful time, where the confluence of an international trade in paint pigment and a broadening palate for evermore audacious color combinations conspired to make the 1700s a extremely colorful, if not garish, century. 

In this post, I am going to give a quick digest of the story of paint and paintmaking in the 18th century, focusing at the end on how paint was relevant to the vehicular trades of wheelwrighting and coachbuilding.

Color Science

 
Throughout the 18th century, one sees a general push toward a more scientific approach to understanding the natural and physical world. Great import was placed on discovering what was at the heart of certain phenomena without recourse to magic or theology—the Age of Enlightenment. This is evidenced in the attempt by numerous authors to spell out a science of color. How does color work, mechanically? What is the human eye capable of discerning? What colors harmonize, and which do not? Can a general systematic understanding of color be derived?

The first notable attempt at systematizing color is attributable to none other than Sir Isaac Newton, father of physics and calculus. Of course, he did numerous experiments in optics, looking closely at the mechanics behind the refraction of light through a prism.  In his Philosophiae Naturalis Principia Mathematica, published in 1687, he offered the first instance of organizing color into a circular diagram, what we now call a color wheel. While Newton's aim was to describe the mathematical principles lurking beneath these phenomena, his color wheel caught on with other less ambitious authors as logical way to describe and present the relationship between various colors. Thus, the color wheel found its way into manuals and treatises on painting and paintmaking in the 18th century.



Another attempt to treat color systematically was made by German astronomer Tobias Mayer, who delivered a lecture on his color system in 1758 in Gottingen. Rather than focus on the mechanics of light, however, Mayer was more interested in the artisan's approach to generating various hues and the limitations of the human eye to discern differences in mixed colors. Mayer organized his theory around a triangle instead of a circle, and looked closely at the relationship between color and pigment, as opposed to pure light. Mayer posited that all possible colors were derived from mixing three primary colors—not a revolutionary insight—and that the human eye could only detect a 1/12 difference in any color formula. That is to say, if a recipe for a particular hue is broken up into 12 parts, then you can only generate a new recipe by changing at least 1 part of that recipe. For instance, suppose you mixed 6 parts red with 6 parts yellow. Then you would make a standard secondary orange color. If now you instead mixed 7 parts red with 5 parts yellow, you would still make an orange color, but one distinctly different from the previous recipe. This 1/12 threshold extends to using white and black pigments as well, which serve to either brighten or darken the hue's shade. 




Finally, we see the color wheel enlarged by Moses Harris in his 1766 treatise The Naturel System of Colours. Harris conceived of this new and improved color wheel to show how the relationships displayed in Newton's color wheel could be extended to compound secondary colors as well. Harris system was designed to aid the paintmaker and art student in understanding not only how to make color, but how certain colors worked together and harmonized. In other words, Harris was interested in how artists and artisans might more effectively use color palettes in their work. 


Colourman's Trade

Stepping away now from the theoretical view on color, we'll look now at the practical side of color, namely: Paint. Where was paint coming from? Who was making it? 

In the 17th century the colourman's trade emerges as a specialization of the painter-stainer's trade. Colourmen are responsible for making paints to order as well as selling paintmaking supplies such as pigment, oil, and brushes. 

The colourman's trade was well established by the 18th century. Numerous individuals and concerns billed themselves as colourmen, the specialty often growing out of first working in the house painting trade. One such London-based concern was established by Alexander Emerton in 1720. A selection of Emerton's palette was referenced in the Palladio Londonensis of 1734 along with the price per lbs for pre-mixed pigment. 


Alexander Emerton's brother, Joseph Emerton, also started a colourman's concern shortly after Alexander's death. Seen below is Joseph's trade card. At the top can be seen a cartouche with a scene of an artist painting a portrait for a sitting model while, in the background, a horse-powered paint-grinding mill is in operation. Joseph Emerton was advertising the fact that he was grinding paint in volume to sell in his shop, using horse-power to scale his production! His was an industrial concern.


Colourmen sold more than just ready-made paint. They sold all the necessary accoutrements to making paint, including oils, brushes, and pigments. You can see a number of these supplies advertised in John Rich's trade card  below which is of indeterminate date, but likely, based on style, from the 18th century. 




How Paint is Made


So how is paint made? Simple! Aggresively mix dried pigment into boiled linseed oil and voila! You have paint! While it sounds simple, there are indeed finer points to making paint by hand, 18th century style. So, to make the topic more tangible, I've embedded a quick video demonstration of me making some paint in the wheelwright shop here at Colonial Williamsburg.





Ingredients

18th century oil paint consisted of three key ingredients: pigment, oil, and lead. I want to discuss each in turn, starting first with pigment.

Pigments

By the latter half of the 18th century, pigments were widely available, being collected and processed all over the world, and then shipped internationally to western markets, making it all the way to stores and colourman's shops in colonial America. 

Pigments were derived from a variety of the sources in the 18th century. There were earth-based pigments, pigments derived from minerals, pigments that were by-products of corrosive processes, and even the first lab-grown synthetic pigment!  Below you'll see a large selection of pigments that could have been bought in a colourman's shop in the period.




Earth-based Pigments: By far the most ancient of pigments, earth-based pigments were the colorants of the very early cave paintings, and even used in funerary rites among the peoples of antiquity. Ochre in all its variations was a very common pigment in the 18th century, partly because it was very abundant, inexpensive, and could often be sourced locally. Some common ochres we use in the shop are: french red orchre, french yellow ochre, spanish brown, and umber. 

Mineral-based Pigments: Pigments derived from minerals were definitely more pricey than earth-based pigments, and thus found more application in a fine arts context, or with luxury objects. Needless to say, it was rare indeed for a cart or wagon to painted with a mineral-based pigment. Examples of such pigments are: vermillion which is derived from cinnabar, massicot, malachite, and lapis lazuli.

Pigments derived from corrosive processes: Numerous pigments come from corrosion of metals. In fact, the range of red colors seen in ochres often is a function of their iron oxide content, or in other words, how much rust is in the dirt! other examples of pigments derived from corrosive processes are verdigris (copper rust) and white lead (lead rust). Lampblack is a pigment made from the corrosion of wood by fire. That is to say, soot! Red lead, which I will talk of more later, is a what happens when you expose white lead or massicot/litharge to a heat treatment.

Synthetic Pigment: Little-known fact: the very first synthetic pigment was developed in 1706 by German painter Johann Diesbach. As the story goes, Diesbach was actually trying to come up with a commercially viable alternative to carmine, an expensive red dye derived from the cochineal beetle, when he happened happily upon Iron ferrocyanide, an incredibly strong blue pigment! Iron ferrocyanide quickly caught on as a much more affordable alternative to ultramarine, a strong blue pigment made by grinding lapis lazuli into a fine powder. In the trading circles, iron ferrocyanide began to be called "prussian blue", and the name stuck.



Linseed Oil

After the colorant, the "vehicle" of the paint is the next most important ingredient in any paint. Most oil paints made in the 18th century, especially in volume, were made using linseed-based oils. Linseeds, for those that aren't botanists, are the seeds of the flax plant—which we coincidentally also make linen out of, thus the name linseed. Actually, linseed oil serves two purposes in paint. It is both the vehicle, which is the substrate that carries the pigment, and the binder, the constituent that enables the paint to stick together and harden. It is the presence of a triglyceride in the linseed oil which, when exposed to oxygen, polymerizes with other neighboring triglycerides in the oil, forming a hard film—dry paint!

Linseed oil was made by means of a large edge runner mill (basically a large mortar and pestle), driven generally by animal-power, much like what was used to process apples for a cider press, or other botanical oils like olive oil. Below you can see a 17th century depiction of olive oil production, which is more or less identical to how linseed oil would have been produced in the 18th century. You see on the left an ox attached to an edge runner mill being driven around in a circle, while a man fills the "mortar" with freshly picked olives (read: linseeds). Once the edge runner mill has pulverized the olives, the mash is gathered into a permeable bag, and the oil is pressed out of the mash in a large vertical press as seen on the right, the screw being turned by three men at once. Once the oil is pressed out of the mash, it is filtered further and processed by boiling, loaded into casks, and taken to market. 




Now, although raw linseed oil possesses a natural drying property thanks to its triglyceride content, it still dries very slowly. Oil paint is notoriously slow drying, which for fine arts application isn't an issue, but for house painting, ship painting, and vehicle painting, is a big bottleneck. So painters and colourmen discovered that they could process the oil in a special way to quicken its drying time by boiling lead into the oil. This new product gained the apt title of boiled linseed oil, and is still used to this very day for finishing raw wood or as a paint vehicle (see below for further discussion).






Lead

I count lead as the third most important ingredient in 18th century paints. It makes its way into period paints through a number of avenues, as a drying/hardening agent, as a pigment, and as a biocide. 

Lead comes in three different flavors, at least in the context of paint: lead monoxide, lead carbonate, and a lead tetroxide.  I talk about each in turn.

Lead Monoxide - Litharge - Massicot

Lead monoxide is the most basic form of lead found in period paints. It occurs naturally in a mineral form, and is used both as a pigment and a drying agent in oil paints. Lead monoxide takes on two distinct morphological expressions: litharge and massicot. Chemically, litharge and massicot are the same compound, but they differ in their crystal structure, which practically means that lead monoxide comes in two different colors: red (litharge) and yellow (massicot). Now, while both litharge and massicot were used as pigments, they would have been a rather expensive way to achieve a red or a yellow, and so were more often used as an additive in boiled linseed oil. 

The way it worked was as follows: A relatively small amount of lead monoxide was added to raw linseed oil, then the mixture was boiled until reaching a thick syrupy consistency. The mixture was left to settle, and the clarified oil which settled on top was ladled off the top of the batch. This process removed impurities in the oil and enriched it with lead monoxide. The presence of the lead monoxide in the oil served as a catalyst toward polymerization of the triglyceride - that is to say, it helped the oil dry faster!







Lead Tetroxide - Red Lead - Minium

So if you take lead monoxide in either of its forms—litharge or massicot—and submit it to a heat treatment (calcination), it transforms into lead tetroxide, otherwise known as red lead. Red lead is a pigment in its own right, and is often used much in the same way lead monoxide is used, serving as an enrichment in boiled linseed oil. However, red lead  is more toxic than lead monoxide, and so has greater utility as a biocide. Red lead paint was often used a primer, especially in areas where there was greater likelihood of rot or corrosion—the idea being that the greater toxicity of red lead would ward off from microbes and fungus that wanted to eat your house siding, or the bilge of your boat, or the undercarriage of your wagon. The microbe would get a mouthful of toxic paint and then die before it had a chance to do serious damage. In contexts where it didn't matter, the red lead paint was left exposed instead of being painted over with a more attractive color—red lead varies in color from a Pepto-Bismol pink to a caution-cone orange based on which starting ingredient was used, litharge or massicot. As we will see later, the undercarriage of wagons and carts was often painted red, not because it was more fashionable, but because the wagonbuilders were priming the undercarriage in red lead and often didn't feel compelled to cover it up with a more attractive color.


Lead Carbonate - White Lead

Yet another lead-based pigment in the period is white lead, which is ultimately derived from the corrosion (rust) that collects on metallic lead sheet.

White lead was big business in the 18th century. It was essentailly farmed and processed on a large scale. A technique was used known as the "stack process" to produce white lead in volume. The process required special "corroding pots" which held a small amount of vinegar at the bottom and had hanger-rod mounted above the pool of vinegar. A coil of metallic lead was suspended above the vinegar on said rod. The pots were then stacked over a layer of horse manure in a enclosed space. The combined action  of the acid vapor, and the heat and carbon dioxide given off by the composting horse manure caused metallic lead to corrode, producing lead carbonate. The corrosion left a white crust on the coiled lead sheets that could be scraped off, pulverized, and subsequently used a white pigment. 





Mechanization

As should be evident from the video of me making the small amount of paint by hand, the process is time-consuming and laborious. In order to produce pigment on a large scale, mechanization was a must. 

One of the earliest examples of a "mechanization" dates to c. 1700 and is attributed to Thomas Child, a Boston-based colorman. His system for grinding used a large stone sphere and a corresponding stone trough - sort of like a large pestle and mortar. The stone sphere was pushed back and forth in the trough with the paint ingredients placed at the bottom of the trough. While certainly laborious, Child's system produced much larger quantities of paint than could be done with a muller and stone.


Further along in the 18th century, colourmen and pigment producers used horse-powered mills to grind paint in large volumes to sell readymade. This process entailed hitching a horse to large geared wheel, which transferred power to a number of lantern pinions, each of which drove a pair of grind stones. The top-most runner stone had a hopper affixed to it that held the oil and pigment. In principle these colour mills worked just like gristmills,  using the shearing force of the two grindstones to efficiently pulverize the pigment further and mix it thoroughly with the oil.  Below you can see a detail from Joseph Emerton's trade card showing such a horse-powered colour mill in action.



At the dawn of the 19th century, there was interest in producing small scale mechanism for paint production. Fine artists and carriage painters making small batches of bespoke paint colors had a real need for a mechanized process, but couldn't afford or warrant building a large horse powered mill. Hence, a number of small scale colour mills hit the market, all catering to these boutique applications.\

The first obvious option was to scale down the horse mills used by colourmen firms and white lead factories. Above is depicted a smaller hand-crank version of the colour mills used in the manufactories, with the addition of a flywheel to smooth its action.
 


We also see Rawlinson's colour mill hit the scene in the early 1800s, though he was prototyping his colour mill in the last decade of the 18th century. Rawlinson's colour mill replaced grinding stones with a large black granite cylinder and a corresponding piece of granite that was cut to a complimentary arc. The corresponding piece was suspended over the granite cylinder on an adjustable spring, so the user could change the fineness of the grind by bringing the cylinder and the mating piece closer together. In use, the mill worked by loading the cylinder with the raw ingredients for paint and then rotating the cylinder around with a crank until the paint was thoroughly ground. Then the user would hinge a sort of boot-scraper up and rotate the cylinder in the opposite direction, scraping the paint off the surface of the cylinder so it could fall down to a collecting dish below. 




Vehicles

Now finally lets look at the relationship between paint and vehicles in the 18th century. First we will look at how paint was used and what colors were in vogue in the context of work vehicles - the product of wheelwrights in the 18th century. 

Whether it was a wagon, cart, or wheel barrow, painting them was a universal practice. This practice sometimes takes guests by surprise. The wood is so beautiful! Why cover it up with paint? The answer is manifold. Firstly, the woods we typically use to build vehicles were not considered "pretty" woods by 18th century standards. It's true that today we love to see oak, ash, and elm finished in the clear, however, to the 18th century eye these woods were not exotic nor fashionable, they simply reminded them of firewood. So covering up these lowly woods with paint was a no-brainer to the wagonbuilders in the 1700s. The second and perhaps more important reason is that painting the wood protected it from rot and degradation. As explained above, the oil with which the paint was made was routinely fortified with lead as a drying agent. The lead functioned both as a drying agent and a biocide, killing the microbes that wanted to eat the wood and kill the cart. In addition, the linseed oil naturally polymerizes creating a kind of skin which sheds water more readily. Rather paradoxically, however, the cured paint is still permeable to moisture! The good news is that since the paint is permeable, whatever water finds its way in, can also find its way out. If instead the water was trapped by a water-impermeable skin, the wood would have a much higher likelihood of rotting. In this way linseed oil paint performs better than latex paint which produces an impermeable skin on the wood.


Above you see a watercolour by John Harris entitled Farmworkers and Cart which dates to 1797. There are two things worth noting here. One is the bright green color of the body. Remembering that this is a farm cart, its remarkable that such a strong and vibrant color would be used for a utilitarian vehicle.  But, is it really? If we consider the color schemes for modern day tractors, strong primary colors are the go-tos. Bright green for instance is now synonymous with John Deere. So even as far back as the late 18th century, work vehicles were brightly colored and perhaps when the tradition was established that led to all the brightly colored tractors and farm vehicles of the 20th century. 

In this vein, lets now look at the spectacular illustrations of James Arnold. Arnold was a skilled illustrator who was active in the early and mid 20th century. As the story goes, he was an avid cyclist and toured much of the English countryside by bicycle. During his outings, he'd come across old farm wagons. He quickly became enamored. He soon took it upon himself to painstakingly measure, record, and illustrate the old wagons he discovered, eventually publishing his illustrations in a book entitled The Farm Waggons of England and Wales in 1969. Below you will see a sampling of four of these illustrations.  While it is true that Arnold is depicting vehicles that are mostly 19th century in origin, one can argue that wagonbuilding and painting practices were fairly conservative and did not change much over time. So what we see being practiced in terms of wagon color schemes in rural England in the 19th century, most likely reflects conventions held in the latter part of the 18th century as well. 







Outside of Arnold's skill, what is remarkable about the above illustrations is the range of color schemes that Arnold observed on these farm vehicles. Despite being working vehicles—bound to carry hay, manure, and dirt—the wagonbuilders and farmers still felt compelled to paint them with strong contrasting color schemes. These vehicles were more than just useful, they were art objects as well.

Another characteristic in Arnold's wagons which is shared by the cart depicted in Harris' watercolour is a red undercarriage. What's going on here? Why do so many wagonbuilders and wheelwrights opt to paint the chassis red?

The answer is not (necessarily) that red was the best or most fashionable color. Instead, it had to do with what kind of paint would best  protect the undercarriage from rot. The answer? Red lead. Red lead was in fact often used as a priming coat because of its high toxicity. And nowhere is that more important than the undercarriage. The chassis is the most critical part of the wagon or cart's construction, requiring very heavy timbers and careful fabrication. In turn, the undercarriage is also disadvantaged by being rarely dried out by direct sunlight and more often wet and muddy from use in the road or field. In other words, the undercarriage is highly rot-prone. The solution from the wagonbuilders perspective is a liberal application of red lead paint. So why not then cover it up with a more attractive color? Well, it's a wagon. Why bother?




Above is a picture of a Virginia Connestoga wagon we have in the collections at Colonial Williamsburg. This wagon was likely built in the early 19th century. Note the prussian blue body color paired with the red lead undercarriage. You even see red lead used for the interior of the wagon body, again to provide greater protection against the elements. 

So, I would be remiss if I didn't include carriages in my survey on paint and vehicles. Unlike with wagons and carts, however, carriage painting was tuned to the latest fashion and thus changed more rapidly when compared with work vehicle color conventions. Paint schemes for carriages in the 18th century were loud, vibrant, and even garish by modern standards. The gentry had a broad palate for color and their vehicles reflected that fact.  Below you will see a number of carriage illustrations from William Felton's Treatise on Carriages from 1794. 










In summary we've seen how paint is made and how it was used on vehicles in the 18th century. As previously remarked, color was all the rage in the period. Whether it was a house, a ship, or a lowly wheelbarrow, the folks in the 1700s desired to both protect the wood from decay and give the objects some style and curb appeal. The range of pigments available to the painters of the 18th century was surprisingly vast, and so in turn was the taste for color. 




Murphy Conn Griffin
Journeyman Wheelwright


Sources:
Felton, William. A Treatise on Carriages. The Astragal Press, 1794
Baty, Patrick.. The Anatomy of Color. Thames & Hudson, 2017. 


12.13.2022

Vernacular Carts & Wagons in 18th century Virginia

 


Three women, one with an infant, are piled upon an overloaded cart. The carter, at the ready, stands near three reluctant horses. A man on horseback and his dog is nearby, either a member of the party, or seeing to their departure. This is set in a rural area, with a structure, trees, and another cart in the background. Thomas Rowlandson’s Migrants (1780) depicts a group of people potentially on the move. Although it was drawn as a scene of Georgian England, it could very well have been Virginia of the Colonial period.

8.25.2022

Plough Project (part 1)





So a couple months back farmer Ed Schultz—master of the historic farming program here at Colonial Williamsburg—came to us with a request: Would we be willing to build him a plough? Not that Ed doesn't already have a working plough, but his aim was to start working with and interpreting a uniquely 18th century style of plough: The Rotherham. Ed knew that the shop had built a Rotherham for Mount Vernon a few years back. The shop's Rotherham design was drawn from a genuine 18th century plough in the museum of civilization in Canada. Based on its design, it is assumed to be an American variant of the Rotherham, albeit a rather provincial iteration. Mount Vernon commissioned our shop to build a Rotherham-style plough because among the surviving papers of George Washington is a correspondence to merchants in Liverpool where he expressly trades four hogsheads of tobacco for a Rotherham. I've excerpted  George Washington's correspondence from March 6, 1765 below with the integral part in red: 

2.04.2022

Tools of the Trade: The Great Wheel Lathe



T
he great wheel lathe is arguably the most conspicuous tool in our pre-industrial wheelwright shop. A day seldom goes by without visitors immediately commenting on its ponderous presence, pointing hesitantly at the large flywheel, their faces twisted in doubt. And yes, in response, we cannot help but quip back: it does indeed take a wheel to make a wheel! But, all joking aside, the great wheel lathe is an indispensable tool for our wheel-making operation and truly deserves to be our inaugural Tools of the Trade featured tool. 

So, why do we need such a large lathe? What are the advantages of the great-wheel lathe over other lathe technology? Why not use animal power or water or wind power? These are some of the questions we are met with regularly. So, in this blog-post I aim to address each in turn as well as outline how our current lathe is constructed—just in case you might want to build one yourself! 


Anatomy of the Great Wheel Lathe

Before setting out, it will be useful to go over the basic anatomy of a great wheel lathe.

Figure 1 - Anatomy of the great wheel lathe


1. Mandrel - The mandrel is a sort of idler pulley connected to the drive center of the lathe. The mandrel's diameter is generally much smaller than that of the flywheel, which increases the effective RPM's the turner experiences at the work piece. The mandrel in and of itself was a later innovation, replacing the previous practice of wrapping the belt about the work piece itself. 

2. Belt/thong/cord - Typically made of leather, hemp, or cotton rope, the belt is what connects the flywheel to the mandrel. Depending on the desired direction of rotation (clockwise or counter clockwise relative to drive center), the belt will be arranged either as shown above, or twisted once over creating a figure eight shape between the flywheel and mandrel. As Moxon notes, before the introduction of the mandrel, the function of twisting the belt was also to help it better grip the work piece (see Figure 3 below).

3. Hand crank - The hand crank obviously is the means by which the flywheel is set and kept in motion. Depending on the lathe and needs of the turner, the flywheel may be equipped with a second handle on the other side of the flywheel to enable a second person to assist in the cranking. 

4. Flywheel - The flywheel is, of course, the eponymous "great wheel." It functions as the main drive pulley for the lathe. Assuming a fixed mandrel diameter, the greater the diameter of the flywheel, the lower the effective gear ratio.

5. Lathe bed -  The lathe bed generally refers to entirety of the framework that holds the puppets. It basically consists of a main frame with a large channel along which the puppets are shifted, which is in turn mounted on legs to raise the work piece up so the turner can stand and work at the piece. 

6. Puppets  - On a lathe bed there is generally two puppets, one which holds the mandrel and drive center, and another which holds a dead center. The puppets can be shifted up and down the channel in the lathe bed so as to accommodate work pieces of different lengths. They are secured in place by means of a wedged tenon at the foot of each puppet. 



History & Advantages of the Great Wheel Lathe

One of the earliest depictions of the great wheel lathe is from Das Ständebuch (The Book of Trades) published in 1568 with woodcuts by Jost Amman. In the woodcut print below, you see a portrayal of a Kandelgeisser (pewterer) turning a pewter vessel by way of the great wheel lathe. 

Figure 2 - Woodcut from Das Ständebuch of pewterer using great wheel lathe to turn pewter vessel

It's hard to say whether the great wheel lathe was being used by woodworkers as well as pewterers in the 16th century, but it's difficult to imagine a woodworker in that period not being struck by the utility of such an innovation.  We know certainly by the early 18th century using the great wheel lathe to turn wood was a commonplace practice. Nor was it regarded by that time as some great innovation, for indeed in 1703 Joseph Moxon remarks "This [great] Wheel [lathe] is so commonly known, that I shall need give you no other Description of it than the Figure it self, which you may see in Plate 14. a"  (178).

Figure 3 - Plate 14.a from Mechanick Exercises or the Doctine of Handy-Work by Joseph Moxon, published in 1703


Moxon goes on to outline the advantages the great wheel lathe has over the spring pole and treadle lathes: 

But when Turners work heavy Work, such as the Pole and Tread will not Command, they use the Great Wheel.  [...]  Besides the commanding heavy Work about, the Wheel rids Work faster off than the Pole can do; because the springing up of the Pole makes an intermission in the running about of the Work, but with the Wheel the Work runs always the same way; so that the Tool need never be off it, unless it be to examine the work as it is doing. (Moxon 178-179). 

So in brief, the advantages of the great wheel lathe are that:
 (1) Turning heavier or larger pieces is made easier thanks both to the mechanical advantage provided by the low gear ratio between the fly-wheel and mandrel as well as the momentum provided by the large heavy flywheel. 

and,

(2) In contrast to the spring pole lathe specifically, the great wheel lathe provides a continuous rotation as opposed to a reciprocating rotation. The work piece turns continuously in the same direction, allowing the turner to "rid work faster." 
Figure 4 - A depiction of a great wheel lathe from Diderot's L'Encyclopedie published in the mid 18th century.


The Great Wheel Lathe & Wheelwrighting

At what point did wheelwrights discover and subsequently introduce the great wheel lathe to their operation? There's no telling for sure, but by the 19th century it appears synonymous with the craft. Before motorization, there simply wouldn't have been a better means for turning out the large elm hubs for cart and waggon wheels.  The Gye lathe, originally from a wheelwright shop in Market Lavington and now housed at the Museum of English Rural Life (MERL) in Reading, is a superb 19th century example—it may even have been originally built in the 18th century.

Figure 5 - Tom Gye standing next to the "great wheel"



Figure 6 - The Gye lathe all set up. There even appears to be a hub blank up ready to turn

The massive timbers used for the lathe bed suggest the Gye lathe was indeed used for turning very large, heavy pieces such as wheel hubs (see Figure 6). 

So what about in the 18th century? What evidence is there to suggest that wheelwrights practicing in the 1700's would have recourse to such technology? One of the best pieces of evidence comes from George Sturt's modern classic The Wheelwright's Shop, published in 1923. Therein, Sturt recounts how his grandfather, a wheelwright in the 18th century, built the first great wheel lathe to be used in their family shop:

More interesting —but I was never man enough to use it—was a lathe, for turning the hubs of waggon and cart wheels. I suspect it was too clumsy for smaller work. Whenever I think of this, shame flushes over me that I did not treasure up this ancient thing, when at last it was removed. My grandfather had made it—so I was told. Before his time the hubs or stocks of wheels had been merely rounded up with an axe in that shop, because there was no lathe there, or man who could use one. But my grandfather had introduced this improvement when he came to the shop as foreman; and there the lathe remained until my day. I had seen my father covered with the tiny chips from it (the floor of the "lathe-house" it stood in was a foot deep in such chips), and too late I realized that it was a curiosity in its way.  (Sturt 56-57)

Figure 7 - Picture of the Sturt and Goatcher Coach and Motor Works, a 19th century incarnation of the Sturt family shop in Farnham, Surrey

  The scenario in the Sturt family shop—a small shop in rural Farnham—was probably a common one for the era; it is also likely that more metropolitan shops would have adopted the great wheel lathe even sooner than their provincial cousins. We know that Sturt's grandfather had previously practiced in London before moving to Farnham. Once there, he started a new job as foreman in a wheelwright shop owned by William Grover.  Grover had purchased the property in 1795 for his wheelwright business. He eventually sold the property and business to Sturt's grandfather in 1810. Based on details from Grover's indorsement of conveyance, Sturt surmises the lathe and its accompanying "lathe-house" had already been built. So at some point within that 15 years time Sturt's grandfather managed to build both the lathe and the workshop that housed it .We can thus envision Sturt's grandfather arriving at his new job in Farnham, only to discover that the shop was sorely behind the times; they did not have a proper lathe! And so he soon convinced the boss to grant him permission to build a brand-spanking new great wheel lathe, ultimately—or so we can imagine—as a way to modernize the operation.
  

Construction of Our Great Wheel Lathe

Here I would like to go over the construction details of the great wheel lathe we use in our shop. It is built out of white oak (Quercus alba), and all the iron components were forged by the Anderson Blacksmith shop here at Colonial Williamsburg.

The Great Wheel & Its Frame

First, I want focus on the great wheel itself and its frame or base. Interestingly, Sturt provides a fairly detailed description of the great wheel lathe built by his grandfather. Numerous construction details are consistent with how ours is built. For instance, Sturt writes,

 On a stout post from floor to ceiling was swung a large wheel—the hind wheel for a waggon—to serve for pulley. All round the rim of this slats were nailed, or perhaps screwed on. They stood up on both sides of the felloes so as to form a run or channel for the leather belting that was carried over the pulley-wheel, across to the stock to be turned. 


Figure 8 - Lookin at the great wheel head on, you can see the channel for the drive belt

Figure 9 - Detail of belt-channel: if you look closely, you can see how the cleats that make the walls of the channel are kerfed to help them make the bend around the radius of the great wheel

Just as Sturt describes, we made a channel for the belt to run along by nailing small pieces of oak to the felloes of the great wheel. It is difficult to see in the picture, but the strips of oak were kerfed at regular intervals so as to help the oak pieces make the bend around the wheel. The joint where two pieces meet is a scarf joint.

Where our design differs from that described by Sturt is that our wheel is certainly nothing like the "hind wheel of a waggon." Our wheel comprises four felloes, each with half-lap joints cut in both ends. There are no true spokes (since there is no hub to our wheel), but instead of spokes there are two substantial cross pieces of oak which cross each other at the middle of the wheel with a half-lap joint fusing them together. Each of these cross pieces have tenons cut at each end—each tenon destined for a matching mortise cut into the middle of each felloe.

Figure 10 - Cross-piece ("spoke") joins the felloe section of great wheel by way of a square mortise-and-tenon

The felloes are attached together at each of their ends by way of half-lap joint. The joint is draw-bored together with a couple of wooden pins, and given additional strength by a recessed plate riveted across the joint.

Figure 11 - Adjacent felloes are joined, first, by two wooden pins that are draw-bored through a half-lap joint between the felloes, and secondly reinforced by a sort of mending plate held by rivets that bridges the joint

Figure 12 - The two cross-pieces that are half-lapped together, forming the "spokes" of the great wheel. In this figure you can see the long reinforcing plate with the square punch out for the drive axle. You can also see the large bolt heads for other plate that mounted on the other face of the wheel.

Figure 13 - Looking at the great wheel head on, you can see the half-lap joint peaking through the belt-cleats

Piggybacking again off of Sturt's description of their great wheel lathe, we have: 
A big handle, which years of use had polished smooth and shiny, stood out from the spokes of this wheel, just within the rim. Gripping this handle two men (but it took two) could put the wheel round fast enough for the turned with his gouge. They supplied the needful "power." Thanks to them a fourteen-inch stock could be kept spinning in the lathe.

Figure 14 - The handle to our lathe, "polished smooth and shiny"

The crank assembly is fairly straight forward. The main drive axle (to which the crank arm is attached) is made from square steel stock. In two places, one on either side of the wheel, you see the bar has been turned down to a small cylindrical section. Those cylindrical sections rest in two cradles that are bolted to the great wheel's frame, the cradles serving as half sleeve bearings for the axle to rotate within. As the main bearing surface, these cradles are of course liberally greased with a mixture of rendered sheep fat and pine tar.
    You will also notice two long plates riveted to the cross pieces of the wheel—one is mounted to one of the cross pieces on the front and the other plate is mounted to the other cross piece of the back. The plate has a square punch out which the drive axle runs through. In conjunction with a square mortise chiselled through the half-lap joint that fuses the cross pieces, the plates help to both reinforce the half-lap joint as well as strengthen the connection between the drive axle and the great wheel.

Figure 15 - Here you can see the entirety of the drive axle along with the two bearing cradles

Figure 16 - Close-up of the drive axle and cradle


The frame for the great wheel is made out of very stout timbers. Four legs are attached at a slight splay. The legs support two horizontal beams which are in turn held a prescribed distance apart by two spacer blocks (one at each end) that is tenoned through the two horizontal beams. The space produced by the spacer blocks accommodates the great wheel. 

Figure 17 - You make out all the key components of the wheel frame: the horizontal beams, the splayed leg, the dovetailed widthwise stringer, the long lengthwise stringer, and the spacer block.
 



Figure 18 - Close up of the bolted joint between the leg and horizontal beam

Figure 19 - Close up of the spacer block joining the two horizontal beams by mortise-and-tenon joint


Finally, the legs are reinforced with stringers attached at the bottom of the wheel frame, running the length and width. While the lengthwise stringers are just nailed into place, the widthwise stringers are endowed with dovetails that are nailed into shallow dovetail-shaped recesses chiseled into the sides of the legs. The dovetails provide against the weight of the great wheel forcing the legs of the base to splay out further. 


Figure 20 - close up of the dovetailed widthwise stringer which fits into a shallow dovetail-shaped recess and is nailed in place
As a final detail, you can see that the back side of the widthwise stringer is chamfered to reduce friction between the belt and stringer. 
Figure 21 - The chamfer on the top inside edge of widthwise stringer to ease the wear of the belt

The Lathe Bed

Now we turn our attention to the lathe bed itself.  Our design is slightly different than any of those depicted so far. Namely in that there is an intermediate puppet between the mandrel and drive center. This serves to further rigidify the mechanism,

Figure 22 - The three puppets, mandrel,  and lathe bed. Elm hub blank is loaded up.

Figure 23 - Close up of the intermediary puppet between mandrel and drive center

Figure 24 - The mandrel


The puppets, once positioned, are held in place by wedged tenons:

Figure 25 - The puppets are secured to the lathe bed by a wedged tenon

Again, all the ironwork was done by the blacksmith shop here in town. They forged up a beautiful tool rest and banjo which are secured to the lathe bed by a large wing nut:

Figure 26 - The banjo and tool rest forged by the blacksmith shop at Colonial Williamsburg


Figure 27 - The banjo is secured to the lathe bed by a wing nut

The last feature are the legs and feet. The legs are made from very stout slabs of white oak. At the top, are cut two notches separated by a kind of tenon which serves as a spacer for the two beams that make up the lathe bed. Two large bolts, passing through the tenon, tie together the legs and horizontal beams. 

Figure 28 - close up of the bolted joint between the horizontal beams and leg of lathe bed

Figure 29 - Another shot of the full leg assembly

At the bottom, the legs are joined by mortise and tenon to two broad feet. 
Figure 30 - one of the large feet to the lathe bed

Conclusion

By 1923, when Sturt sat down to write The Wheelwright's Shop, he already regarded the great wheel lathe as a curious relic, one whose rapid and sure death he had watched unfold first hand. He wrote "too late I realized [the great wheel lathe] was a curiosity in its way." (56). Nevertheless, he understood how important and revolutionary it had been for his shop, writing:  

And had I but realized it in time, near at hand was a most interesting proof of the advantages of this implement. For the stock of the waggon wheel—that very wheel now used for the turning other stocks—had not itself been turned. It had only been rounded up very neatly with an axe, in the old-fashioned way. It puzzles me now how they could ever have built a wheel at all on so inexact a foundation. (56-57)

Without a shadow of doubt, the great wheel lathe was a pre-industrial innovation that really transformed the wheelwright's trade. It enabled the wheel-maker to turn out much larger pieces, much quicker, and more accurately than if they were shaping them by axe. What is interesting to me now is how the great wheel lathe stands as an intermediary to the motorized lathes of the early 20th century—comparable to one of those in-between species in the trajectory of evolution. For many wheelwrights, I imagine, the introduction of the great wheel lathe would have been their first taste of how new tech could vastly improve their practice. Once introduced, it seems, the great wheel lathe had a firm foot hold and, by dint of its utility, held a hallowed place in the shops of many wheelwrights and coachmakers for easily 150 years. And were it not for motorization and industrialization, were it not for the rise of the automobile and the tractor, it would likely still be haunting many a lathe-shed, like some ponderous medieval creature waiting still for the sharp, raspy sound of a gouge against seasoned elm.   


Written by:
Murphy Conn Griffin
Apprentice Wheelwright



Citations

Sturt, George. The Wheelwright’s Shop. Cambridge, 2022.

Moxon, Joseph. Mechanick Exercises or the Doctrine of Handy-Works. The Astragal Press, 1975.